The best food in Vienna - The philistine's guide to Pork Stelze
Ok, it’s definitely time for my long overdue follow up to the best food in Vienna – part one. In that post I focused more on wintry dishes. No surprise considering that so many Austrian dishes tend to be quite heavy. Today’s recommended plate is actually no different, however it is most famously eaten during the summer months. In fact, I have long been recommending this to my guests on my kayak and wine tours as not only is it traditionally Austrian, but it’s damn good!
What is a Stelze?
The dish in question is called a Stelze in Austria. Basically, this is a huge pork knuckle, which is first boiled with caraway seeds to produce tender salty meat before then being roasted to create the most amazing crispy crackling. A Stelze is typically served with a couple of pieces of very dry sourdough bread, and some small servings of grated horseradish, and one or two mustards for dipping. Word to the wise – the grated horseradish is definitely NOT shredded mozzarella, so unless you’re into food masochism then don’t make the same mistake as my brother by helping yourself to a large spoonful on its own – horseradish has the same effect as wasabi!
Stelze side orders...
One of these bad boys is easily enough to share between two people, and if you don’t eat that much, you could even share one Stelze between three. Expect to pay around €22, including the basic extras (mustard, horseradish and bread) which typically come as standard. However, I’d give the bread a miss and supplement your order with fries, potato salad, maybe a rosti with garlic puree, or a side of sauerkraut, or of course, all of the above. Personally, I recommend sauerkraut as its acidity cuts through the fattiness of the meat perfectly. Looking around you as you eat, you’ll notice that it is compulsory to eat a Stelze while consuming copious amounts of beer and intermittently smashing beer glasses together with your freunde. When in Rome…
Where to eat a Stelze...
You can find them all over Vienna, but perhaps the most traditional spot to eat a Stelze is the old imperial hunting grounds, and modern day theme park, Prater, in Vienna’s 2nd district. The Prater park itself is definitely worth a visit while you’re in Vienna regardless of whether you’re a pork fiend or not. It always has a fun summer vibe due to all the amusement rides and generally happy and smiling people milling around, which makes for a nice change from the usually somewhat dour locals. There are also lots of green spaces around there to enjoy, the ultra-modern architecture of Vienna’s University of Economics, and one of Vienna’s most famous landmarks – the Riesenrad (big wheel). Anyway, back to where to eat this meaty masterpiece…
Which restaurant should I visit to eat a Stelze?
My first ever Stelze was at ‘Zum Englischen Reiter’ (the English Rider). This is a traditional Austrian restaurant with loads of indoor and outdoor seating located right in the middle of the amusement park, among the rides. Just over the road from there is also the ‘Schweizerhaus’, which can be best described as a culinary machine. It is extremely busy here throughout spring and summer, but because it is so vast you can usually find a table, as so many people are constantly coming and going. The Schweizerhaus is also where many football fans congregate before the national team plays its games so it generally has a lively, almost Oktoberfest style beer hall atmosphere, yet most of it is outdoors. A stone’s throw from the Schweizerhaus, you’ll also be able to find a Stelze at ‘Kolariks Luftburg Restaurant’. All three of these establishments are guaranteed to give you meat sweats, no worries.
So there you have it, my take on the best food in Vienna. The Stelze is well-known among locals, yet easily missable by foreign tourists, so in the spirit of equality I wanted to feature it here. A couple of minor caveats: 1) don’t expect great (or even good) service at these places – the waiters tend to be very busy (not that that should ever be an excuse), and you may have to wait a while to get your order off (especially at the Schweizerhaus); 2) on occasion some parts of the meat around the edges of the knuckle can dry out and become a little tough due to the skin roasting process. However, neither of these are a big deal, so go to the Prater, eat your pork, drink your beer and experience a big part of Viennese life!
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